![]() ![]() Given how tight the tolerances are with QK's it seems like it would be easy to screw up and a drill block could help prevent that. These little stainless steel threaded inserts are screwed and epoxied into the ski at the binding mount points and the bindings are attached using stainless. Just a thought.Īnd one last thing, I think it would be great if Skimo sold drill blocks for those of us that aren't using a drill press. I also think the fastener kit should come with 1 extra screw of each size so there is a spare to put in the backcountry repair kit. To make them work I put the screws in a drill, clamped a file to my bench, and quickly ground down the head to 9mm. Most of the flat head hex screws have 9.2 to 9.4mm diameter heads on them. The 12mm length fit fine for the toe pieces but the adjustment plates need a narrow head screw (< 9mm) which doesn't seem to be available in the States. I went to the hardware store and picked up M5 hex flat head screws (they didn't have Torx) in 10mm and 12mm length. Within 2 binding swaps the screws were already getting rounded out. Phillips really is the worst head design for a screw that is gonna be used over and over. I know this is mentioned in the comments but I didn't really think it through. I got the fastener kit for Helio 200's and was disappointed to see they were Phillips head. The 5ml bottles will lock the fasteners into the inserts. You can also buy each item individually, listed as "Step Drill Bit, Bottom Tap, and Installation Tool".įinally, you can use Vibra-Tite thread locker if you don't plan on swapping bindings often. We’re also happy to try and assemble a kit for your needs.Īlso available is a Pro Installation Kit that consists of three items: (1) a specially machined drill bit that stops at the proper depth for an insert, (2) a tap to cut a thread into the ski that matches the outer pitch of the inserts, and (3) an installation tool that allows you to screw the inserts in and then back the tool out. Each kit comes with the quantity of screws needed to mount a pair of bindings (2 toes and 2 heels). We also have kits for other brands include the Plum Guide, Fristchi Vipec, Marker Kingpin, and G3 ION bindings. We currently stock kits for Dynafit Superlite, Turn, Radical, Vertical, Comfort, and Beast bindings. Alternately, you could buy the pre-packaged fastener kits already known to work with your model (inserts not included). Then make several trips to the hardware store to find metric screws that fit your binding. To operate a set of QKs, you’ll need to buy one Stainless Insert for each screw hole in your binding. These should be called Quiver Enhancers instead. Of course, you could also use several bindings on one ski, which may help kill a ski quiver, but just creates a binding quiver. Thus, you can have a huge quiver of skis that all use the same binding. Properly installed in a ski, they allow you to mount bindings in a removable fashion. ![]() I think the added integrity to 7+ holes on that ski will over compensate for almost any issue you might find.These stainless steel inserts may actually expand your ski quiver instead of killing it. The advantage of this is that you can use multiple skis with only 1 binding. Start slow and progressively give it the gun in low consequence terrain until you have your confidence in your inserts. As the only large freeski shop in Europe, we can drill your skis with Quiver Killer inserts. I give it the old 90-10 and think you are likely to be absolutely fine. Why Quiver Killer inserts Inserts make a bomber connection to your ski giving roughly twice the strength of a regular binding screw. ![]() ![]() That said, people have been skiing on spinners, slightly off center holes, and JB weld for decades. Our Technology Quiver Killer binding inserts are installed into your skis allowing you to easily remove and swap bindings between skis using only a screw driver. You can add milled fibers (fiber glass), graphene oxide, or carbon fibers to some epoxy to increase structural integrity. Force and how it plays with your fix will determine which fix is best. Seeing that force throughout the hole will vary a lot by which screw on the binding is attached. Multiply that by depth and the volume is a little exaggerated. moving from 5mm to 6mm in width is an area jump of about 75mm^2 to almost 115mm^2. 1mm isn't a ton, but in terms of the hole area and volume, it is a lot. Something else to think about would be to consider ordering a tap for the width you have on that one hole and add a fiber product to the epoxy or JB Weld mix if you are really worried. Digital calipers are in my binding install bag. I think that the rescue might be perfect in that you may have the perfect hole size for it, but without a caliper reading we cannot be sure. Qualification: I have only installed inserts on a half dozen pairs of skis but I grew up in a wood/car/machine shop. ![]()
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